Again With the Planning....

I have been furiously sewing away on my 1916 outfit using Wearing History's 1910s Suit Jacket pattern and am almost done with the outfit.  Just need to complete a petticoat so the skirt will stand out correctly before I photograph the whole ensemble and share it with you.  Oh, and I need to desecrate an antique fur hat to make it more 1916...maybe, we'll see if I can go through with it.

Anyhoo, while I am completing that, I thought I'd share some of the projects I have in the plan/collect all the things/design files for future outfits.  The historical clothing education group I am a part of, We Wear Idaho History (we have changed our name to reflect our love and passion for Idaho!!!) is expanding our fashion show variety to encompass different styles and genres of historical dress.  To that end, I am going to be making outfits that will be useful in the shows, ones that I have had on my "will make before I die" list for quite a long while and darn it!!!  I totally have an "excuse" to make them now.  Like I totally need an excuse!  Bwhahahahahaha!!!!!  I'll also share my Pinterest pages where I get my inspiration! 

1890s Wedding Gown

I was vacillating between making a bustle gown or an 1890s gown, but the '90s won out.  I have some really lovely dark cream silk dupioni that literally shines and I wanted the loveliness of the fabric to not be impeded by pleats and shirring.  Plus, the 1890s just make me smile

Inspiration for the wedding dress...Love the typical '90s sleeves and the sweep of the skirt!!!

Source:  Indianapolis Museum of Art

Pinterest board:  Weddings Old Style

Late 1890s Maternity Gown

For some odd reason, I have always wanted to make a Victorian maternity gown!  Probably because I started making these dresses after my last son was a year old and therefore never got to make a dress for when I was pregnant.  So, I am seriously excited to make one now!  I had been thinking about what era to make the dress...Bustle?  1860s?  A wrapper?  When the solution solved itself for me!  I had purchased a teens era skirt and 1916 dress pattern on eBay and the seller said she would throw in another pattern she had laying around because she wanted to get rid of it.  I said, "Cool with me!" not knowing what pattern she had in mind.  Low and behold, when I opened the package I was gobsmacked to discover what lay in its confines.....A ladies House Jacket pattern that was literally PERFECT for a late 1890s maternity dress!!!  My mind was blown!  I had seen Empress Alexandra's maternity gown from when she was pregnant with Grand Duchess Maria and thought it a lovely confection!!!  I was laughing hysterically at the craziness of it all, and once again I was gifted with worried and quizzical stares from my children... 

Empress Alexandra's maternity gown.  Isn't it gorgeous!  I will be on the look out for some ivory and pink (I could just die from the girliness of it all!!!) fabric and of course the lace.

Source:  Hermitage Twitter

Pinterest Board:  Maternity Clothing of Long Ago

So fabulous pattern that will be used to make Empress Alexnadra's gown!  Sooooooooo excited!!!

1890s Bicycle Outfit

I have wanted to make one of these since I first stared making Victorian clothing, but something else always got in the way.  But NOW, now it will be made.  Probably next year, but it will be made!  I have the fabric and the patterns and so now there is no excuse!  I love the thought of an outfit specially designed for a lady to ride her bicycle!!!  Go lady go!!!!!

I don't remember where I found this particular image, but I do know I have a paper doll book that has the image in it!  I LOVE This dress!  It is so beautiful in its simplicity!!!  Can't wait to make this baby come to life!!!

Edited:  Source:  Museum of Play

Pinterest Board:  Sports: Cycling Costumes of Long Ago

Riding Habit

In the past I have made two riding habits, wore them to have pictures taken, and then for some idiotic reason, sold them.  ACK!!! What was I thinking?  I have no idea.  But after finding some fabulous dark forest green Pendleton wool at a thrift store (on the factory cardboard for heavens sake and for $5.99 for it all!!!) I knew exactly what would be made of it.  The below fabulousness.....

I just love how gorgeous this green riding habit is!  And I already have the hat to go with it!!  Huzzah!!!

Source:  The MET

Pinterest Board:  Riding Habits of Long Ago

1917 Military Inspired Dress

This had been on my "That's really cool, but I have no idea how I am going to make it because there are no patterns available in my size" list for quite a while when Lauren of Wearing History came out with her 1910s jacket pattern.  I knew exactly what I would make when I saw the pattern and my heart got seriously happy that day!!!  I love the tailored look of the whole thing and can't wait to get to it!  I have the fabric ready and waiting.  It was going to be made for Costume College last year and I can't remember why it wasn't.  But soon my pretty...sooooooon.....

Ok, I also have the pith helmet and shoes!  Squee!!  Cannot WAIT!!!

Source:  Dress Making Research

1920s Aviatrix/Explorer

Several years ago, I acquired a pair of antique Jodhpurs that, at the time, there was not a snowball's chance in the outer reaches on hell I was ever going to get into.  Not even if I lathered myself with butter and olive oil and jumped into them from atop my roof.  Then I lost weight and low and behold.....THEY FIT!!!!!  I scared Rosie dog who was minding her own business, sleeping on my bed with my shriek of sheer happiness!  I have loved jodhpurs ever since I saw Meryl Streep wearing them in "Out of Africa" and then again when I saw the Honorable Phryne Fisher wearing some...I KNEW that I had to fit into mine.  I had considered taking my pair apart and making a pattern out of them because I could not for the life of me find a quality, pattern that really really really looked like old fashioned jodhpurs.  My conscious and my not talented pattern making brain rebelled at the idea of taking the vintage pair apart...thankfully.  I did purchase the Folkwear pattern for the 1920s equestrian jodhpurs but was still not happy.  Thankfully, I can now wear the originals!!!  

I didn't know if I wanted to be an explorer from the late teens/1920s or an Aviatrix when a chance encounter at a thrift store settled the debate.  I found an antique aviator's leather cap for $7.00.  I stood in the store in silence, trying to contain the great WHOOP of excitement attempting to escape my lips.  I think I did a very admirable job as I paid for my cap, a 1940s brown leather purse and a 1950s parasol, keeping my emotions under control!!  Hahahahahaha!!!  

I have been wanting some riding/hiking boots that laced up the front but didn't have a zipper for a long while and wasn't having any success finding some that were in my budget.  Happily, I won the bid on a pair on eBay.  When they came, I donned them along with my shorts and T-shirt and paraded around the house like an idiot, much to the delight of my niece and nephew.  I am so totally fostering the personality of the Eccentric Old Aunt.

I am still on the look out for a bomber jacket, but was consoled with the fact that there are many images of Aviatrix's lady pilots with out them.  

Dorky, excited me taking a selfie to send to my friend Josie...I was seriously ecstatic!!!

I am also loving this image of Lady Edith Crawley's Bicycle outfit....

Source:  fanpop

Pinterest Pages:  Jodhpurs

Aviatrix

Oh!!!  And check out Nabby's Aviatrix Costume!!!  She is pretty rockin' in this get up AND she made her own bomber jacket!!  Huzzah!!

1840s Mourning Gown

Every October, I attempt to make a mourning gown from a different era.  This year, I have decided, thanks in part to all the Jane Eyre movies, to make an 1840s mourning gown!  I am so excited! This will be the outfit I work on next.  A whole new suite of underwear will have to be made to go along with it...darn it!!!  hahahahah!!!  I am so very excited!!  I already have the black wool that I purchased in Vancouver, BC years ago, and the pattern...just need to get started!!!

I love the simple and elegant lines of this dress!

Source:  Dames a la Mode tumblr

1860s Elliptical Hoop 

To add to my " I would really love to have a dress from every era starting with the Regency Era" dreams, I am "needing" to make an elliptical hoop and all that goes along with it.  I found some lovely plaid wool at the thrift store one day and think it would be fabulous with a zouave jacket!  I will have to make an elliptical cage which I am soooooo not looking forward to, but that's totally ok.  I'll get over it!!!

For some reason, this style of dress is really lovely to my eyes!  This outfit, however, is a ways down on my to do list!!!

Source:  The Barrington House

Well, that's all I have in the way of planning so far.  Again, if I write it down for the world wide web to see, it's "out there" and I now have to make it....right?

Have a wonderfully blessed day my friends!  I'm off to make a petticoat!!

g

First Bustle Era Dress....or the Grape Soda Dress...Underskirt Completed!!

Huzzah!  Step one in the Grape Soda dress is finished!  The last knot of thread on the underskirt was knotted about two hours ago!  I am so excited!  

Here is the Grape Soda monstrosity in all it's grape-y glory!  What a mass of silk...I tried it on and boy was it fun to walk around in!  I am still trying to decide how to do the bustle in the back.  I have a few inspirations that I am pondering....I may just tie a know at the back like the fashion plate below! 

Inspiration for the trim on the front of the skirt.  I loved the pleat, ruffle, ruffle-with-two-edges-being-ruched idea.  I don't have enough fabric to do the upper most ruffle, but I think my skirt looks fine without it.  The inspiration doesn't have any ruffles on the back of the skirt/train, but I wanted them on mine as it would help keep the train "out" and not fold over on itself and also looks pretty!

Close up of trim.  The dark band around the ruffle is the selvage.  I LOVE silk that has the selvage as I am a lazy pleater/ruffler and if I can get away with not hemming anything, I totally will!!!!!!

Up next...apron and bustling.  I am sure that this era of dress is supposed to have the apron/bustle sewn into the waist band of the underskirt, but I just didn't want to mess with it....

Be blessed my friends!

g 

My First, First Bustle Era Dress!! Huzzah....or Not?

One of the dress eras I have been wanting to make for a very long time is the Soft Bustle or First Bustle era.  I have plenty of the Second Bustle Era dresses, but now comes the time for the First Bustle.  Last week I made the bustle hoop and train support, Laughing Moon 112.  It took me two days of construction and at the end, my fingers, hands and fore arms were not on speaking terms with me...actually they were shouting swear words to me, the kind that would make a sailor blush!!  I knew that making the hoop and support would be the hardest part and so bit the bullet and just made it.  It is so ridiculous and fabulous...I LOVE it!!  You know what?  Victorian and Edwardian underwear can be so ridiculous and fun...that's one of my favorite parts about this whole hobby of mine!!

Anyhoo, this coming week I will be endeavoring to make my first ever Soft Bustle Dress!  I am sort of excited.  Because of my fabric and the colors, I haven't found the perfect fashion plate, photograph or extant dress to re-create.  To that end, I am going to have to make a Frankenstein Dress!  I am discovering that this era is going to be fun...HELLO trim and pleats and ruching and flowey, billowy sleeves!!!  I think this is my main problem...trying to decide what to do on the bottom of the underskirt.  I have found several inspirations that are really blowing my skirt up.

 I really love the general shape of this dress.  It doesn't have a train, but the rest is fabulous.  The square neckline is lovely and the sleeves are fabulous!!

Source:  Truly Victorian

My fabrics.  Both dupioni silk.  The embroidered is one I have had for years and had enough to make a Soft Era Bustle dress.  The embroidery is reminiscent of bamboo shoots.  The solid color of the embroidered is a tannish pinkish color.  The solid is a beautiful periwinkle color and works really well with the bamboo shoots...although it is hard to see in the photographs...

I plan on using the periwinkle as the underskirt, trim and possibly the sleeves...we shall see!

My fun bustle cage and train support!  This is so fun to walk around in!!  It sways and bobs...I love ridiculous underwear!!!

So, I am really loving the overskirt on this dress.  It looks as though it is ruched up the front and then bows are placed at intervals.  Oh!  And look at the parasol pocket!!

Source:  Here

Here is that fabulous ruching-up-the-front-with-bows-at-intervals overskirt!  LOVE LOVE LOVE!!!  This is Princess Helena Augusta Victoria of Schleswig-Holstein with her two eldest children.  The lower part of the bodice is lovely and the Truly Victorian pattern I am going to use has this option.  I'm not in love with the sleeves and their lack of fluff and frill and I'm not sure I will do the all-the-way-to-the-neck neckline. But that overskirt?  Oh ya baby....well, only if I can ruche with the embroidery.  That may be an issue...

Source:  Wikipedia

I am really digging the trim on the underskirt of this dress.  It is ruch-a-licious!!!  So many different layers to behold!!  If I can't do the ruche up the front, this may be an option.

Source:  The MET

More lovely trim, this time in the form of gorgeous layers of pleats!  Both dresses have three layers, although the one on the right has different widths of pleats. I am the pleating fool, so this is a possibility!!  

Source:  Faces of the Victorian Era tumblr

More fantabulous pleats on the underskirt.  The overskirt has some delicious pleats as well.  I like how the underskirt has narrow pleats, but the bustling/train has ruffles!  Way too fun!!

Source:  Faces of the Victorian Era tumblr

Now for the top....I am thinking the big bow smack dab in the middle is super fun!  Also, I love the pleat work on either side of the opening.  This is a possibility!!

Source:  Pinterest

Here is another example of the open neckline.  I think this will be happening with this dress as it is a very girly, fluffy sort of dress.  For the up-to-the-chin collar, I will wait for a more tailored dress!  Oh and check out the trim on the skirts and the sleeves!!  I'm in love!!!

This is Grand Duchess Maria Alexandrovna with her brother Grand Duke Vladimir Alexandrovich or Russia.

Source:  The First Waltz tumblr

Another fabulous example of the bow in the front of the bodice with the open neck.  And those sleeves?  Le Sigh!!!!!

Source:  Pinterest

Well, this is only a little bit of the images that I am looking at to make this dress come to life!  I am hoping that I have a dream tonight that will tell me exactly how to make this dress! That would be so fabulous!!

Be blessed my friends and I hope you have a wonderful week!

g

P.S...her is the link for my First Bustle Era board!

Inspiration Galore...Hello Dollies!

Oh...my...gosh!!!  Ok, so I have spent the past 5 or so days being sick and pretty much keeping to my bed or the couch trying to beat this cold/sinus thing.  So, what do I do to pass the time?  Watch "Criminal Minds", Period Dramas, and peruse Pinterest.  Yesterday, I was looking once again for one of my favorite styles of Victorian dress, Sailor Suits, when what should come across my Pinterest feed?  THE FABULOUS OHMYGOSH DRESS BELOW!!!!!  I was blown away!  Yes, it's a doll dress.  Yes, it is in the shape of a little girl dress.  But you know what?  I got so many ideas for a dress in my size from this little gem from the past!  I went from drooling over this dress to finding the second sailor dress below with the red accents.  That led me down a most dangerous rabbit whole to exploding my Pinterest board that is for Antique Dollies with all manner of doll dresses from the Victorian Era.

Antique Dollies is my Pinterest board than now houses hundreds of dolls and their dresses from the Victorian era to the Edwardian Era.  I couldn't believe I had never thought of this before!  Young ladies from back then were gifted with dolls that were dressed with the same fabrics, trims, buttons, fashion and color combinations as was worn by children and ladies of the time!  DUH!!!  It was totally a light bulb moment and I revelled in the knowledge that not only did I have inspiration from sources such as extant garments, fashion plates and photographs, but now I have this wealth of inspiration in these diminutive dresses that adorned little girls' play things!  

Let's take a look at how the play things of old can inspire us!

Source:  Ruby Lane

Ok...I am in utter and complete LOVE with this dress!  What caught my eyes at first was of course the colors.  I adore the navy and ivory of this dress.  Then there is the sash and the really wide box pleats that are trimmed with two rows of stripes!  Fabulous!  The way the cuffs are trimmed and can we say buttons???!!!  Oh and that beret is so sweet!

Source:  Ruby Lane

This dress is so fun.  Again the skirt has wide box pletes this time employing more ivory stripes but now there is an addition of lace.  I never would have though that lace would look good on a sailor dress!  The "V" on the bodice is pretty spiffy as well, the way it is layered.

1830s Romantic Era

Source:  Theriault's The Doll Masters

Ok, so this is a peculiar dress, but it comes from the 1830s!!  Look at her hair!  All the colors and textures just make me smile!

1860s American Civil War Era

Source:  eBay 

This dollie's name is Evangeline.  I tried to find some information about her and came up dry.  The only thing that comes to mind concerning a doll from the 1860s named Evangeline is in the movie "Little Women", Beth March tells her sister Amy, "Evangeline and I will make you some ginger tea."  This doll is so incredible!  I love her dress (on my Pinterest page, you can see all the outfits she was sold with...).  The trim around the sleeves is fun and can you see her brooch????  It looks like a mourning hair brooch!  I was blown away!  Her bonnet is pretty fabulous as well.

First Bustle Era

No source found.

The first thing that struck me about this dress is the color combination.  LOVE the blue shot with brown silk.  The trim looks like it is a sort of chenille.  I am totally digging the double box pleats that are manipulated at the top to make an "X".  The bodice has the look of a faux vest and her hat?  So fabulous!!!

Source:  Theriault's The Doll Masters

I am wanting to make a first era bustle dress to add to my "Eras Collection" and this one has really inspried me.  The purple plaid is gorgeous as are the trims of lace, fringe, and velvet ribbon.  The pleated section at the bottom of the skirt looks like it would be a fun addition to a costume!

Natural Form Era

Source:  Theriault's The Doll Masters

This dress is so great!  The assymetrical opening of the princess dress is so cool!   The color combination is not one I would have thought of before.  Of course there are those fabulous buttons and buttons make my heart happy!  It looks like the pocket on the side is a huge bow and that is pretty sweet.  Her hair is done up in ribbon and that would be a fun thing to do if you didn't want to wear a hat or bonnet!

Source:  Ruby Lane, item has been taken down.

The colors of this dress go so well together.  I am really digging the ruched trim of the train and 3/4 sleeves.  You can see a very small bow of the taupe velvet at the sleeves...

Second Bustle Era

Source:  eBay

Look at all the ruching on the front panel of the skirt!!  This is my kind of dress!  The bodice is a bit on the simple side, but sometimes that is a nice thing to see...simple elegance.  The double flounce of ruffle at the bottom of the skirt looks really delicate and pretty over the lace.  You can see the ruffle and lace theme repeated at the sleeve cuffs and neck opening!

Edwardian Era

Source:  eBay

The tailored look of this Edwardian walking suit is beautiful. The color of the dress paired with the fur is stunning.  Her hat is epic!!  I like big hats and I cannot lie!!  You can see how the dress maker was in tune with the times in every aspect of this doll dress!!

Wax Fashion Ladies by Lafitte Desirat

During my mad search for doll clothing, I discovered a doll maker that I had never heard of before.  Lafitte Desirat.  There isn't a lot about this doll maker on the web, but I did find a book titled "The French Toy" in the form of a PDF file from The Art Institute of Chicago.  From April 15th to May 12th, 1918, The Art Institute of Chicago hosted an exhibition of French Toys and the exhibit booklet has a small section about Lafitte Desirat.  On page 14 of the French Toys booklet, it states that, "Madame Lafitte Desirat is the daughter of Monsieur Pierre Lafitte, director of the Lafitte Publications, 'Femina', 'Je Sais Tout', etc.".  Desirat created wax dolls wearing elegant dresses of the time.  I wish more was written about this incredible artist!  Her dolls and the dresses are a wonderful inspriation if you are needing some for the Teens era to the 1920s!!

Source:  The Met  (unfortunately, the link has been taken down on the website)

I love the colors of this dress!  The blue and yellow stripe of the skirt really speak to me.  The hat is over the top fabulous as well!  The ruching up the bodice is super fun as well!

Source:  The Met (again, the link has been removed)

I am loving the colors of this dress.  They are so soft and sweet.  The style is very reminiscent of the Laughing Moon Pattern 104.  Hello huge 1912 hat!!  Love ya!

Source:  Theriault's The Doll Masters

Hello 1917 style!  Love the fun flowing dresses from this time period.  The lace dress is so lovely as is the turban style hat she is wearing.

I have of course started a new board on Pinterest:  Lafitte Desirat French Wax Fashion Dolls.

Well, there you have it...my new found inspiration sources!  I can't wait to see what other doll dresses are out there that can offer up more eye candy!

Have a marvelously blessed day my friends!!

g

1920s Inspiration from 1980s Patterns

Good Saturday to you all Lovelies!  As promised in my last post, here are some of the 1980s patterns I have found that are so similar to the 1920s fashion that it is a bit spooky.  Being a DIY gal and a thrifty sort of spirit, I love being able to take something that is on the cheap inexpensive side and using it to make something neat-o!  Most of these patterns I found at thrift stores for $0.25 - $0.99!!! 

 Now, there are some fabulous pattern sites that have recreated wonderful 1920s style patterns...I have purchased a few of them, so if you would like to check them out, here are the links...

Past Patterns

Reconstructing History

Folkwear

Wingeo (pages 17 and 18)

Burda Style even has a set of PDF files if you can do PDF files...I can't, they stress me out, but here is the link...

Burda Style

You can also find wonderful vintage 1920s patterns on both eBay and etsy!  Just type in "vintage 1920s patterns" and some really fabulous patterns will come up.  I purchased one that I cannot wait to make!

I spent some time the last couple of days pouring over my 1920s Fashion board on Pinterest, creating new boards that pair outfits that look very similar to some of the patterns I have in my collection so I could share them with you!  Some of the dress inspirations will require a little modification of the pattern to achieve the correct look, but they are very minor!  Well, except for getting rid of the HUGE 1980s shoulders and shoulder pads...but that is an easy fix!

Butterick 3525

Pinterest Board: Butterick 3525

McCall's 6468

Pinterest Board: McCall's 6468

Butterick 6688

Pinterest Board: Butterick 6688

Simplicity 6939

Pinterest Board: Simplicity 6939

Vogue 7550

Pinterest Board: Vogue 7550

Simplicity 7041

Pinterest Board: Simplicity 7041

Butterick 6830

Pinterest Board: Butterick 6830

Butterick 3337

Pinterest Board: Butterick 3337

McCall's 4905

Pinterest Board: McCall's 4905

I have more patterns in my collection that I will hopefully get around to matching 1920s outfits to in new Pinterest Boards...but for right now, I am Pinterest-ed out!!

Have a glorious day my friends!

Blessings!

g

Dress Inspirations: 4. Movies and TV shows

Where do I begin?  There are so many fabulous movies and TV series out there to draw inspiration from it isn't even funny!  Here are some resources that I have found most helpful when needing a lovely dose of inspiration from the media!

The Costumer's Guide

http://costumersguide.com/index.shtml

Clothes on Film

http://clothesonfilm.com/

The Period Movie Review

http://periodmovies.blogspot.com/2008/07/costumes-in-film-index.html

All of these are fabulous resources for close ups of movie wardrobes!  

Titanic, The Age of Innocence, The Forsythe Saga, The Duchess, Marie Antoinette, The Madness of King George, Amazing Grace, Pride and Prejudice, Sense and Sensibility, Emma, Vanity Fair, Mansfield Par, Wives and Daughters, The Golden Bowl, Cold Mountain, An Ideal Husband, Daniel Deronda, Anna Karenina, Bleak House, North and South, The Young Victoria....I could go on and on, but I won't.  The costume designers of these movies really know their stuff and their work is so fun to gaze upon!  So, next time you are watching one of these movies, why not pick out a dress and make it?  It can be an exact representation, a loose representation, the same style but different color, or you can choose an element that really floats your boat and assimilate it into your design!  Be creative!!!

Francis Fisher as Ruth Dewitt Bukater: Titanic

I so fell in love with her dresses!  They were so lovely and I have many of them on my "to do" list!

My loose interpretation!  Can't wait to wear it to The Museum Comes To Life!!

Winona Ryder as May Welland-Archer in The Age of Innocence.  I really like the lines of this NFE dress and the stripes on the diagonal!

My interpretation of the dress...I decided to change the bodice up a bit as I didn't really like the collar of May's dress.

Sophie Marceau as Anna Karenina in Anna Karenina (1997).  All the dresses in this movie were over the top fabulous!  I would love to re-create them all!  This dress was so very striking and awesome that I had to make it!

My version.  I had artistic license for the skirt as you can't see the skirt very well in the movie. 

Sophie Marceau as Anna Karenina in Anna Karenina (1997).  This dress looked so neat to me...the ruching and pleating just called my name!!

My interpretation in golds and olive!

I have so many "want to make" dresses from movies.  I don't know if I will ever get them all made, but looking and dreaming is so much fun!

I hope these entries have been helpful!  Those designers of old really knew how to dress a lady!