1830s Wedding Bonnet and Accessories

Good Sunday to you all!  I hope that your past week was a fabulous one!  Mine was good.  Mom has been improving with her shattered leg and working on her therapy and should be going home tomorrow!!  Huzzah!  

Today, I'm sharing the bonnet I made to go with the 1830s Wedding Dress.  There wasn't a bonnet that I copied "exactly", but I took some ideas from extant bonnets and fashion plates from the 1830s.  I noticed that a lot of the bonnets from then had a texture or pattern other than plain satin and that made me happy.  I also noticed that quite a few had narrow stripes.  LOVE!  I spent quite a long time trying to locate some fabric that would suit my idea of the bonnet I wanted and it wasn't until my Big Sis, Marilyn Holly gave me a bag of fabric.  In this bag was the perfect fabric!!! Huzzah!  I raced home with my bag of fabric and held it up to my dress, and low and behold they were in the same color family!!!  I was thrilled!  I also wanted it to be over the top to go along with the fabric and design of the dress.  I added three antique, off white ostrich feathers, a huge flower sprig that I took off an antique hat that was falling apart, wide antique ivory ribbon for the decorative bows and some incredible antique lace that was in my stash!!  

The pattern I used was Lynn McMaster's 1830s Romantic Era Bonnet

The Bonnet

Images that inspired me while making the bonnet for the dress:

LACMA

Old Rags tumblr

Necklace and Earrings

My sister, Kelly, made the necklace for me while we were in the waiting room at the hospital waiting for Mom's surgery to be over. Thanks sis!!! Little did we know what a 2 hour knee replacement would turn into an 8 hour surgery to repair the bone that was shattered into over 20 pieces attempting to remove the rod that had been placed in the fibula over 31 years ago.  On a happy note, Mom is improving nicely and will be going home from the care center where she has been rehabilitating for 2.5 weeks tomorrow!!!

The inspiration for the necklace came from Dames a la Mode tumblr.

What She Carried Down the Aisle

I had a hard time finding a fashion plate, portrait or any suggestion that a bride carried flowers on her wedding day in the 1830s.  I'm sure she did, but...  I will do more research into that, but for the fashion show, I liked the idea of a bride walking down the aisle with a prayer book.  All of the fashion plates that I saw from the 1830s of brides showed her holding a prayer book or Bible and many times a handkerchief.  I had a dickens of a time trying to find an era or at least antique prayer book on line or even in town, but I came across this one from the 1960s at a local antique store that was holding an Estate sale.  Huzzah!  I'll continue to look for a true, era appropriate prayer book, but until then, this will do!  I also had my 1830s bride wear my silk, fingerless mitts.

Inspiration below for prayer book or Bible carrying.

Source:  LAPL

Source:  LAPL

Source:  LAPL

Source:  LAPL

Sleeve Supports

To keep the enormous sleeves up and in place, I made these sleeve supports using a pattern that Annielese of The Young Sewphisticate sent me! Thank you my dear!  These are fabulous and totally aided in keeping the correct shape!!  Here is a pair of extant sleeves supports that are in FIDM Museum.

And to finish the blog, one more look at the lovely Miss Molly modeling the dress!  She was so adorable and such a good sport!! Thank you again Molly for joining us!!

Well, I believe that's all for the 1830s Wedding Dress....until I wear it!!  I can't wait!!

I hope you all have a wonderful first week of October!  See you next Sunday!

Blessings!

g

1840s Mourning Bonnet Complete!

Huzzah!!  With the bonnet complete for my 1840s Mourning ensemble, I now only have to tackle the dress before next Saturday!  I think I can to it!

I really admire the gorgeous bonnet from the Museum of Fine Arts in Boston, and so decided that it was what I would use for my ensemble.  It is simple and elegant and conveys mourning perfectly.

I used all fabrics from my stash!  Huzzah for that!  I think this ensemble is going to all come from my stash!  Anyhoo, it is made of black cotton, black silk crape, silk tulle and silk dupioni.  I was happy to find some vintage flat black satin ribbon today for the ties!

Inspiration:  Museum of Fine Arts Boston

The original is made of silk and silk crape.  The ties are also made of crape, but I didn't want to use that for my ties as it seemed like they would have been a bit flimsy.

The website for the original doesn't have a view of the inside of the bonnet so I don't know what that looks like.  I decided I wanted to make the bonnet appropriate for half or second mourning as I have a really fabulous antique hair brooch I will be wearing with this ensemble.  Plus I want to use my cashmere shawl with the dress, so white on the inside it is!  I had seen on a few examples that there is a ruffle around the brim and thought it rather sweet and soft.

The curtain on the original is trimmed in crape, a fun accent! 

I was sort of stressing about the non-smoothness of the cotton on the top, sort of like wavey wrinkles.  Then I noticed that the original has them so I feel much better!  If the Victorians could have non smooth bonnets, so can I!!

I hope you have all had a really marvelous week so far!  I am going to sit back and relax and give my grouchy fingers a break!

Blessings!

g

How To Do a Bonnet or Hat Mock-up Tutorial

Yesterday I started on my mourning bonnet for the 1840s Mourning ensemble.  I'm using a new-to-me pattern, McCall 5129.  It doesn't totally match the shape of my inspirations, I really don't want to purchase a new pattern, and I am running out of time to order a new one anyway.  In light of all this, I decided to do what I usually do when altering a hat/bonnet pattern or making a new pattern.  I made a mock-up!!

The process is very much like making a mock-up for a bodice and is relatively simple to do!

You will need tape, scissors, a sharpie (or other felt tip pen) and large sheets of Poster Board...mine was 22" x 28", purchased at Staples for $6.88 for 10 sheets.  

Let's Begin Shall We?

Nice, lovely sheets of poster board!  Good for all sorts of things!!  I used these also when I was making the pattern for my Spelling Bee Wings.

Trace your pattern out exactly on the poster board and cut out.  I cut out the Large size, as I have an enormous head!  Awesome.

For this pattern, there were only two pieces, so I joined the back pieces with tape.  I have very rarely had the great happiness of having a brim fit exactly to a crown...this is where doing a mock-up is really a good idea.  If things don't fit, you are only out the price of the poster board and not the more expensive buckram!!

Before I took the time to tape the crown to the brim, I just sat the brim on the crown.  I could tell right away that the crown was too large for the brim.

I started making the crown smaller in very small increments.  Sorry for all you math lovers, I just eyeballed this!  The whittled down crown piece ended up matching the "Small" crown piece!!  That's how "off" the pattern piece was.

Not only did I need to whittle down the crown, I had to extend the end pieces.  This I did by taking a scrap piece of paper and drawing an extended piece.

Here I have cut the extended piece out...

Next I laid the scrap extended piece under the end piece...

Finally, I taped the extended piece to the end piece!  I did this on both sides.

Now is the time to start taping the crown to the brim.  I matched up the points marked "center front"....be very sure to draw these marks on your pattern pieces so you have a reference point!!  Tape that down.

I like to take the tape and put it first on the crown.  (It helps me to tape on one side of the "center", then the other.  Then the one side, then the other and so on.)

With the tape on the crown already, all you have to do after you butt the crown to the brim, is press down the tape on the brim!

Now the other side.  I leave about 1" - 1.5" between tape pieces.

Cool!!  The "Center Back" line on the back of the brim almost matches the Center line on the crown.  This would be the time to trim the extended pieces if they are really too long.

Here I have crossed out the line that I assumed would be the center.  Where my index finger is pointing is where the top of the back piece will come to on the bottom of the back piece.  Mark that on your pattern so you can match that up on your final pattern piece.

I have taped the top back edge to the bottom back edge.

I like to be overly instructive to myself on my pattern pieces.  It is all nice and lovely to say, "Oh yes!  I am totally going to remember what I did here on my mock!!"  Then life happens and what you did on you mock is the furthest thing from your mind and before you know it, you have forgotten what you did!!  So MARK ALL THE THINGS!!!

Here, I have re-marked the center back of the brim and have marked where the top tab of the back will meet the bottom tab.

Side "A"

Now after the bonnet is taped together and marked, I start to re-work the pattern piece.  Where I am pointing, I didn't like the sweep of the bonnet.  It is a very lovely pattern, and from what I have seen during my research, is pretty spot on, but I want a different shape.

I cut a piece of scrap poster board and have taped it front and back to the bonnet.

Now, I drew the sweep that I thought would look better.

Then I cut it out!  You can see better on this image where I taped the scrap to the base bonnet.

Side "B"

I figured since I had a mock up already made, I would do another side in a different shape for the future!

On this one, I wanted the bonnet to be a little more shallow and the points at the chin to be more pronounced.  Using my seam gauge, I marked the front 1" and just eyeballed the sweep part. 

Here is a top view of View "A" and View "B".  Having that line smack down the middle is a handy thing to have if you are going to use the mock-up for two different bonnets, or if you have a lot of altering to do.

Side "B" has been all cut to where I want it.

Now to try the mocks on.

View "A".   I really like the "Coal Scuttle" shape of this view.  Many of the bonnets in the 1840s hid most of the face from side view.

Side "B".  I like the long and distinct chin point on this side as well!!  

Score for two views!!!

Front view.  This is also an important view as it shows what the front of the bonnet will look like!!!  You still have time to adjust and alter before you cut into the buckram at this point.

Time to make the "real" pattern!

After carefully cutting the tape between the crown and the brim so as to remove them from each other, I cut the mock-up straight down the center line.  I laid side "B" down flat on a fresh sheet of poster board.  I made very sure to carefully butt the edge of the mock-up against a line I drew on the fresh sheet.  Then I traced it out and made sure to transfer any markings I drew on the mock-up.

I flipped the mock-up and traced it on the other side.

Now, in order to make sure my markings from the mock up were added, I had to use the back tab from side "A".  I traced the lower piece, where my finger is pointing and added the notes about "center" and the arrows.

Ta-Da!!!!!  My new pattern piece!  

Here you can see where the back tabs are going to fit together.

All taped up with the "Center" line plainly visible!

Start taping the crown to the brim by putting tape where the "brim center" line is.

Tape to the "Center Front" and "Center Back" lines on the brim.  Tape the crown to the brim all the way around leaving 1" to 1.5" between the tape.

Final Fitting!!!

View "A" looks really nice!!!

View "B" looks really nice!

Now to carefully un-tape the pattern pieces and trace them on to the buckram and make an 1840s bonnet!

I hope that this helps!!  This can be used for all sorts of hats and bonnets.  Just use the paper like you would the buckram, but instead of thread to attach the pieces, use tape!  It's Oh-so easy!!!

Be Blessed my friends!!

g