To all who mourn in Israel, He will give a crown of beauty for ashes, a joyous blessing instead of mourning, festive praise instead of despair. In their righteousness, they will be like great oaks that the LORD has planted for his own glory. Isaiah 61:3
Showing posts with label 1840s Mourning Project. Show all posts
Showing posts with label 1840s Mourning Project. Show all posts

Saturday, October 31, 2015

1840s Mourning at Morris Hill Cemetery and Kathryn Albertson Park

 It's All Hallow's Eve and I was able to get to Morris Hill Cemetery to have a photo shoot with my newly completed 1840s Mourning dress!  My fabulous husband went with me to take my photos and he took a whopping 842 pictures!!!!  HOLY MONKEY!!  Thank you so much my sweet for traipsing through the cemetery, looking at gravestones, helping me with my shawl and tying my shoes!  I love you so!

Photos taken at:

 Morris Hill Cemetery

Morris Hill Cemetery is a fabulously beautiful place.  It is rather old (1882) and has some beautiful gravestones and two mausoleums.  A large military section is also in MH Cemetery.  Many of those buried there fought in the Spanish American War.

My favorite accessory I wore today was my Victorian Kashmir Paisley Shawl.  It kept me very warm in the chilly autumn air! 














Kathryn Albertson Park

The trees at Kathryn Albertson Park at this time of year are so beautiful!  I am sort of sad that there weren't many red and orange trees, but the yellow ones were wonderful!!








And At Home

A couple of the paintings I have seen where the lady is in a mourning dress and a Victorian paisley shawl have her sitting in a chair.  I chose to be reading a mourning letter from the 1870s.


I hope you all had a wonderful Halloween Day/All Hallow's Eve!

Be Blessed my friends!

g

Thursday, October 22, 2015

1840s Mourning Bonnet Complete!

Huzzah!!  With the bonnet complete for my 1840s Mourning ensemble, I now only have to tackle the dress before next Saturday!  I think I can to it!

I really admire the gorgeous bonnet from the Museum of Fine Arts in Boston, and so decided that it was what I would use for my ensemble.  It is simple and elegant and conveys mourning perfectly.

I used all fabrics from my stash!  Huzzah for that!  I think this ensemble is going to all come from my stash!  Anyhoo, it is made of black cotton, black silk crape, silk tulle and silk dupioni.  I was happy to find some vintage flat black satin ribbon today for the ties!




The original is made of silk and silk crape.  The ties are also made of crape, but I didn't want to use that for my ties as it seemed like they would have been a bit flimsy.


The website for the original doesn't have a view of the inside of the bonnet so I don't know what that looks like.  I decided I wanted to make the bonnet appropriate for half or second mourning as I have a really fabulous antique hair brooch I will be wearing with this ensemble.  Plus I want to use my cashmere shawl with the dress, so white on the inside it is!  I had seen on a few examples that there is a ruffle around the brim and thought it rather sweet and soft.




The curtain on the original is trimmed in crape, a fun accent! 



I was sort of stressing about the non-smoothness of the cotton on the top, sort of like wavey wrinkles.  Then I noticed that the original has them so I feel much better!  If the Victorians could have non smooth bonnets, so can I!!

I hope you have all had a really marvelous week so far!  I am going to sit back and relax and give my grouchy fingers a break!

Blessings!

g

Friday, October 2, 2015

Two 1840s Petticoats: 1 Quilted and 1 Corded

 Right then!  Last weekend was super busy.  My Mother-in-law was in town and on Sunday, I became the mother of an 18 year old!  That's right, my oldest son turned 18!!  I cannot believe I am the mother of an "adult".  I am not that old!!!

I returned to sewing after all was back in order.  I started and finished a quilted petticoat and starched and ironed the corded petticoat I had finished last week.

The Quilted

I have wanted to make a quilted petticoat for quite while.  I have made do with my "cheat" one, the one made out of a quilted curtain.  It's the one I use for my 1830s and my 1860s.  I have a Pinterest page dedicated to Quilted Petticoats and while perusing it one day, I found the one that I could totally do!!  It is a lovely ivory confection with a wave, "eye", swirly, diamond design going on!  I figured that I could easily make it.  I decided to make it using the sewing machine as I have no time at all whatsoever to do anything hand sewn.

I am super happy with how it turned out!!



The Inspiration

This petticoat is so luscious.  I truly love the color but badly wanted to use stuff from my stash, and all of my ivory silk is earmarked for other things!


Source:  The MET


 For some reason the silk did not photograph well.  It is super lovely...sort of a dark chocolate with a touch of cinnamon!





For the inside, I chose a fabric that I found at Walmart a while ago.  It is a cotton and reminds me of a quite a few of the cotton prints that I have seen dresses from the 1840s and 1850s made of!  Huzzah!!!



 The Construction

The circumference of the petticoat is 86".  I decided that the "eye" of the designs should be 6" apart and that's how I made the pattern.  I soooooo did not feel like tracing the pattern out with a chalk pencil, knowing that I would have to reapply it constantly, so I pulled a trick from my Great-Grandma Cornelia's book.  When she used to quilt, sometimes she would use catalog paper to use as patterns and then just sewed the paper, along with the fabric together, later removing the paper! Genius!!!  I made the final design by tracing the swirly eyes onto computer paper that was taped together in a long strip.  I had thought about using either tissue paper of newspaper print, but I am so glad I didn't.  The computer paper held up quite nicely to the moving and bending and folding that I needed to do to get the lines sewn. 


At the very bottom of the petti, I sewed in one line of the larger cording I had used in the corded petticoat.  Then I placed the pattern above that.


Let the pinning begin!!!  I actually added waaaaaay more pins that what is shown here.  I didn't want the pattern or the three layers slipping around.  For padding, I used 100% cotton flannel.  I also chose to sew from the back of the petti, as it caused the front to have the quilted look.  When I sewed from the front, it was "flat" looking and not quilted looking.


Ta Da!  First row of wavey eyes done!!  Grandma Cornelia sure knew what she was doing!
 

Nest step...just start tearing off paper!  It was actually quite easy, as the needle acted to perforate!


Border number 2 complete!!


I did have a bit of trouble here.  I decided to safety pin where the flannel ends met so they wouldn't shift and totally forgot to remove the pins before pinning the pattern paper to the petti!!!  Two safety pins destroyed.....


Another shot of the tearing off of the paper pattern!!  I used tweezers to remove any left over paper.


The Corded

I made a corded petticoat to go with all of my 1830s dresses using Sugar and Cream crochet thread, but I wanted a corded petti that would give my 1840s skirts the correct bell shape.  For this one I used a thicker string.  I can't remember the width as I am number challenged....


Petti before being starched.


The brand that is available at my local store.


I actually make up the starch in a non reactive metal pot!  Works perfectly!


After soaking the petti in the starch, I drape it over a large trash can covered with a large black trash bag.  For this one, because it has a draw string closure, I had to lift it off the ground on one of my patio tables.


After the petti has dried, it can quite literally stand by itself!  Crazy!!!


Sooooooo....here is the crazy petti after I ironed it.  
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I was sort of freaking out at the insane bell shape of the thing!  I tried it on and after laughing myself hoarse, I just didn't know what to think of it.  So, I put one of my 1830s plain pettis over it....



Ok, this is much better and doesn't look so ridiculous!!  I may or may not make a couple of new plain pettis...We'll have to see how much time I have left over!!!

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My sweet 18 year old son!!  I am so very blessed to have him in my life!

Be blessed my friends and I hope your weekend is tremendous!!

g