Grape Soda Overskirt/Bustle Complete! Plus a Mini Tutorial!!

Well, it's done!!  I had a heck of a time deciding what to do with the bustling and made several prototypes before settling on the one that is now on Emma.  I went back to researching on Pinterest and found several examples of a wee puff at the top of the bustling.  I thought they were rather lovely and liked that they had a "formed" way about them and didn't just hang limply down the back.  I made more pleats and ruched more purple strips for both the apron and bustle.  The pattern I used for the apron was the TV208 1870 Trained Bustle Ensemble, the bustling was drafted by me!

Bustling Inspiration

Again, I really liked the puff at the top of these bustles.  They are nicely formed and aren't "hang-y".  I know...it's not a word, but that is the only way I can describe it!  hahahahahaa!!!!!

This puff looks like it is being supported by the white lace...

Pretty Pink Puff!!  Looks like a confection from a Pastry Shop!

The bow on the side of the puff on this one is super sweet...I used this, but with shorter tails on my bows as I am quickly running out of purple silk and still have the bodice to trim out!!  ACK!!!

Source:  Henry Art Gallery

This one also gives the illusion of the puff being supported by the ribbon band!!

Source:  Europeana Fashion Tumblr

I used the "support" band under my puff.  I thought about ruching the strip, but in the end thought it would be a bit over kill.

More pleats and ruching.

Mini Tutorial

On my last post about the underskirt, Val LaBore commented that perhaps I would do a detailed blog post about how I get my pleats and ruches straight....Here it is Val!!!

First, I make my pleats, ruffled, or ruched bits.  Then I start at the hem.  I always place my pleats/ruffles 1/2" past the hem.

Ha!  Ruler showing 1/2" past hem.

While keeping your ruler at the 1/2" place, gently lay your pleats/ruffles to the 1/2" mark.

Pin your pleat in place!

Gently lift your pleat and move the ruler to a space about 1.5" away from your original site.  Replace pleat to the 1/2" spot and pin.

Continue this until you have pinned all the pleating/ruffling around the hem of the skirt.

Another way to place the pleats is to make marks on the skirt and pin the pleats/ruffles at that mark.  Here, I found out where I wanted the pleat to be (1/2" past the hem).

I found that it was 3.5" up on the skirt and just used a disappearing ink pen and marked all the way across my "skirt".  (Ok, it was just a piece of fabric, but here we will pretend it is the skirt!!   Bwahahahahaha....)

Next, I just placed the pleat's edge along the marks and pinned them down.

Ta-Daaaaaa!!!!!  Ugh...ignore the crooked edge of the pleats...

Now you can sew the pleats down or you can start pinning the next layer on top to save a step.

Next step is the ruching...or lace, or other trim.  Start measuring again for correct placement.  Here I chose 3 1/4".  

Every 1.5-2" measure 3 1/4" and pin it in place.  When all the trim and pleats are pinned in place, sew ever so slightly to the side of the gathering pleats...all of them.  

Now this is where I go back and remove the gathering stitches.  I don't like the way the looser stitches look along side the permanent stitching.  

Voila!  You are done!!!

I hope you all have a most blessed week!!

g