Grape Soda Dress.....Compete!!! Huzzah!

She's done!!  I am so excited as I can get back to my life!  Seriously!  I don't think I have ever spent this much time on a dress...except for the "Faithfulness" Masquerade dress I made for the SASS Convention waaaaay back in 2005!!  I think I spent more hours on this dress than I did on the Wedding Dress I made in January/February of this year.  I don't want to make another one of these time consuming dresses again for a long time.  That being said, I am super happy, excited, thrilled with the way this beast dress turned out!!!

Sadly, I didn't have enough of the periwinkle silk to make any long tails for the bows on the bustle or the back of the "belt", but that's just fine with me.  I think the addition of a bigger bow or tails would have overwhelmed a balance that was teetering on the knife edge of just right and "HOLY COW, IT'S A BARBIE DOLL CAKE!!!!!"  

These are the Barbie Doll Cakes of which I speak.  Of course if I were a 6 year old little girl, I would totally be all over these, and if I were per chance to be at a 6 year old's Birthday Party, I would so totally partake of said cake.  However, I am a 43 year old woman and do not wish to look like a Barbie Doll Cake.

Edited to say:  I LOVE Barbie Doll Cakes....I just don't want to wear one!!!

Source:  Cake Gallery

Right....Back to the subject at hand....

The way the colors of the silks blend together really makes my heart and eyes happy!!

The trim at the front is a spray of antique lilac flowers.  I LOVE them so much!  I have had them for a very long time and they have been used on a couple of hats and another dress.  I was going to go for a solid periwinkle bow, but decided on the bamboo print silk instead to give a nice contrast.

UGH!!! These sleeves caused me to have quite the anxiety!!  I started out using Truly Victorian's 1873 Polonaise for the sleeve pattern.  I had them all sewn up and pinned into the bodice and they just didn't blow my skirt up.  So I futzed around with them and finally came to what is now sewn onto the bodice!  I added pleats and ruching/shirring and a bow to carry on the theme that the rest of the dress was employing.  If I find some wide, inexpensive antique lace, I may add them to the sleeves.  Purchasing college textbooks and homeschool curriculum has cut into my costuming budget though...which is just fine with me!!!

And that's the end!!!  Hahahahahahaha!!!!

The Hat

For whatever reason, I didn't wish to have a bonnet to go with this dress.  I wanted something nice and simple.  Maybe it was the thought that a little coffee will cut the sweet.  I had the feeling that if I made a bonnet, it would only cause the almost saccharine sweetness of the dress to become overkill and way too much.  So, a simple hat was the solution!

The hat started out as a large sun hat.  I found it at a thrift store and about 5 years ago re-worked it into what I thought could pass for a first bustle era dress.  The crown was super skinny and the brim was....well, different.  I decided that I didn't like the shape and so set about re-shaping it with steam and clothes pins!!  That's how I got the tip of the brim to fold over...clothes pins!  Hahahahaha!!!

Below are some of the inspiration images that helped in the designing of  my hat.

The one on the left...I love that it doesn't have any ribbons trailing down the back.  Again, I ran out of silk for this dress and so didn't have any extra to make ribbons for the back.  It's nice and neat!

Again, the hat on the left. This one has the ribbons though....

An antique buckle, antique fabric flowers, and antique ostrich plumes were used as decorations.

Pardon my bald head...I am still working on a suitable hairstyle to go with this era...ACK!!! I have my own hair and then a nice braid that I am going to use!

The shoes I am thinking of using can be seen here. They are a wee it darker...ok a lot bit darker and pinch my feet.  So, not 100% sure they will be worn.

There you have it!  Huzzah and away!!  All done!! Well, except to sew on the bows at the sleeves and add the buckle to the bustle cage...then.....I will rest!!!

Be Blessed my friends!!!

g

Grape Soda Overskirt/Bustle Complete! Plus a Mini Tutorial!!

Well, it's done!!  I had a heck of a time deciding what to do with the bustling and made several prototypes before settling on the one that is now on Emma.  I went back to researching on Pinterest and found several examples of a wee puff at the top of the bustling.  I thought they were rather lovely and liked that they had a "formed" way about them and didn't just hang limply down the back.  I made more pleats and ruched more purple strips for both the apron and bustle.  The pattern I used for the apron was the TV208 1870 Trained Bustle Ensemble, the bustling was drafted by me!

Bustling Inspiration

Again, I really liked the puff at the top of these bustles.  They are nicely formed and aren't "hang-y".  I know...it's not a word, but that is the only way I can describe it!  hahahahahaa!!!!!

This puff looks like it is being supported by the white lace...

Pretty Pink Puff!!  Looks like a confection from a Pastry Shop!

The bow on the side of the puff on this one is super sweet...I used this, but with shorter tails on my bows as I am quickly running out of purple silk and still have the bodice to trim out!!  ACK!!!

Source:  Henry Art Gallery

This one also gives the illusion of the puff being supported by the ribbon band!!

Source:  Europeana Fashion Tumblr

I used the "support" band under my puff.  I thought about ruching the strip, but in the end thought it would be a bit over kill.

More pleats and ruching.

Mini Tutorial

On my last post about the underskirt, Val LaBore commented that perhaps I would do a detailed blog post about how I get my pleats and ruches straight....Here it is Val!!!

First, I make my pleats, ruffled, or ruched bits.  Then I start at the hem.  I always place my pleats/ruffles 1/2" past the hem.

Ha!  Ruler showing 1/2" past hem.

While keeping your ruler at the 1/2" place, gently lay your pleats/ruffles to the 1/2" mark.

Pin your pleat in place!

Gently lift your pleat and move the ruler to a space about 1.5" away from your original site.  Replace pleat to the 1/2" spot and pin.

Continue this until you have pinned all the pleating/ruffling around the hem of the skirt.

Another way to place the pleats is to make marks on the skirt and pin the pleats/ruffles at that mark.  Here, I found out where I wanted the pleat to be (1/2" past the hem).

I found that it was 3.5" up on the skirt and just used a disappearing ink pen and marked all the way across my "skirt".  (Ok, it was just a piece of fabric, but here we will pretend it is the skirt!!   Bwahahahahaha....)

Next, I just placed the pleat's edge along the marks and pinned them down.

Ta-Daaaaaa!!!!!  Ugh...ignore the crooked edge of the pleats...

Now you can sew the pleats down or you can start pinning the next layer on top to save a step.

Next step is the ruching...or lace, or other trim.  Start measuring again for correct placement.  Here I chose 3 1/4".  

Every 1.5-2" measure 3 1/4" and pin it in place.  When all the trim and pleats are pinned in place, sew ever so slightly to the side of the gathering pleats...all of them.  

Now this is where I go back and remove the gathering stitches.  I don't like the way the looser stitches look along side the permanent stitching.  

Voila!  You are done!!!

I hope you all have a most blessed week!!

g

First Bustle Era Dress....or the Grape Soda Dress...Underskirt Completed!!

Huzzah!  Step one in the Grape Soda dress is finished!  The last knot of thread on the underskirt was knotted about two hours ago!  I am so excited!  

Here is the Grape Soda monstrosity in all it's grape-y glory!  What a mass of silk...I tried it on and boy was it fun to walk around in!  I am still trying to decide how to do the bustle in the back.  I have a few inspirations that I am pondering....I may just tie a know at the back like the fashion plate below! 

Inspiration for the trim on the front of the skirt.  I loved the pleat, ruffle, ruffle-with-two-edges-being-ruched idea.  I don't have enough fabric to do the upper most ruffle, but I think my skirt looks fine without it.  The inspiration doesn't have any ruffles on the back of the skirt/train, but I wanted them on mine as it would help keep the train "out" and not fold over on itself and also looks pretty!

Close up of trim.  The dark band around the ruffle is the selvage.  I LOVE silk that has the selvage as I am a lazy pleater/ruffler and if I can get away with not hemming anything, I totally will!!!!!!

Up next...apron and bustling.  I am sure that this era of dress is supposed to have the apron/bustle sewn into the waist band of the underskirt, but I just didn't want to mess with it....

Be blessed my friends!

g 

My First, First Bustle Era Dress!! Huzzah....or Not?

One of the dress eras I have been wanting to make for a very long time is the Soft Bustle or First Bustle era.  I have plenty of the Second Bustle Era dresses, but now comes the time for the First Bustle.  Last week I made the bustle hoop and train support, Laughing Moon 112.  It took me two days of construction and at the end, my fingers, hands and fore arms were not on speaking terms with me...actually they were shouting swear words to me, the kind that would make a sailor blush!!  I knew that making the hoop and support would be the hardest part and so bit the bullet and just made it.  It is so ridiculous and fabulous...I LOVE it!!  You know what?  Victorian and Edwardian underwear can be so ridiculous and fun...that's one of my favorite parts about this whole hobby of mine!!

Anyhoo, this coming week I will be endeavoring to make my first ever Soft Bustle Dress!  I am sort of excited.  Because of my fabric and the colors, I haven't found the perfect fashion plate, photograph or extant dress to re-create.  To that end, I am going to have to make a Frankenstein Dress!  I am discovering that this era is going to be fun...HELLO trim and pleats and ruching and flowey, billowy sleeves!!!  I think this is my main problem...trying to decide what to do on the bottom of the underskirt.  I have found several inspirations that are really blowing my skirt up.

 I really love the general shape of this dress.  It doesn't have a train, but the rest is fabulous.  The square neckline is lovely and the sleeves are fabulous!!

Source:  Truly Victorian

My fabrics.  Both dupioni silk.  The embroidered is one I have had for years and had enough to make a Soft Era Bustle dress.  The embroidery is reminiscent of bamboo shoots.  The solid color of the embroidered is a tannish pinkish color.  The solid is a beautiful periwinkle color and works really well with the bamboo shoots...although it is hard to see in the photographs...

I plan on using the periwinkle as the underskirt, trim and possibly the sleeves...we shall see!

My fun bustle cage and train support!  This is so fun to walk around in!!  It sways and bobs...I love ridiculous underwear!!!

So, I am really loving the overskirt on this dress.  It looks as though it is ruched up the front and then bows are placed at intervals.  Oh!  And look at the parasol pocket!!

Source:  Here

Here is that fabulous ruching-up-the-front-with-bows-at-intervals overskirt!  LOVE LOVE LOVE!!!  This is Princess Helena Augusta Victoria of Schleswig-Holstein with her two eldest children.  The lower part of the bodice is lovely and the Truly Victorian pattern I am going to use has this option.  I'm not in love with the sleeves and their lack of fluff and frill and I'm not sure I will do the all-the-way-to-the-neck neckline. But that overskirt?  Oh ya baby....well, only if I can ruche with the embroidery.  That may be an issue...

Source:  Wikipedia

I am really digging the trim on the underskirt of this dress.  It is ruch-a-licious!!!  So many different layers to behold!!  If I can't do the ruche up the front, this may be an option.

Source:  The MET

More lovely trim, this time in the form of gorgeous layers of pleats!  Both dresses have three layers, although the one on the right has different widths of pleats. I am the pleating fool, so this is a possibility!!  

Source:  Faces of the Victorian Era tumblr

More fantabulous pleats on the underskirt.  The overskirt has some delicious pleats as well.  I like how the underskirt has narrow pleats, but the bustling/train has ruffles!  Way too fun!!

Source:  Faces of the Victorian Era tumblr

Now for the top....I am thinking the big bow smack dab in the middle is super fun!  Also, I love the pleat work on either side of the opening.  This is a possibility!!

Source:  Pinterest

Here is another example of the open neckline.  I think this will be happening with this dress as it is a very girly, fluffy sort of dress.  For the up-to-the-chin collar, I will wait for a more tailored dress!  Oh and check out the trim on the skirts and the sleeves!!  I'm in love!!!

This is Grand Duchess Maria Alexandrovna with her brother Grand Duke Vladimir Alexandrovich or Russia.

Source:  The First Waltz tumblr

Another fabulous example of the bow in the front of the bodice with the open neck.  And those sleeves?  Le Sigh!!!!!

Source:  Pinterest

Well, this is only a little bit of the images that I am looking at to make this dress come to life!  I am hoping that I have a dream tonight that will tell me exactly how to make this dress! That would be so fabulous!!

Be blessed my friends and I hope you have a wonderful week!

g

P.S...her is the link for my First Bustle Era board!