To all who mourn in Israel, He will give a crown of beauty for ashes, a joyous blessing instead of mourning, festive praise instead of despair. In their righteousness, they will be like great oaks that the LORD has planted for his own glory. Isaiah 61:3

Friday, November 28, 2014

1886 Half Mourning Dress

For the next little bit, I am going to be doing something new.  I got the idea from several places.  1) TBT...Throw Back Thursdays that is big on Facebook and 2) Katherine from A Fashionable Past.  She has been writing blog posts about previous dresses and I think that is a lovely idea!  I just started blogging 3 years ago, but have been costuming for 11 years.  I am also getting rid of some unwanted weight and really don't want to be making any outfits that won't fit in a bit.  That and it is the holiday season and really want to partake in fun holiday activities and not stress about costuming.  So, I am going to be doing a Throw Back Thursday of sorts on this blog!  Here goes!

1886 Half Mourning Dress: 2007

From the tender age of 10, I have loved the idea and ideals of Victorian Mourning.  While some may feel the whole thing a bit morbid and macabre, I feel the whole process a thing of beauty.  Especially with what has happened in my valley recently.  The teenage daughter of a couple I know died the middle of this month.  A very lovely lady who I have grown to know through costuming passed away just this evening of cancer.  My Mom and I visited with her before she left us and on the drive to and from her house, had many talks about death and dying and how we as people living in 2014 America handle death.  Since the advent of funeral homes, death has been removed so far from our homes, that I am of the belief that we don't know how to handle it any more.  Society gives us a few weeks or months to "grieve" or "handle" the death of a loved one, then it expects us to move on, return to work, get on with life. But the grieving process goes on for so much longer.  Society feels uncomfortable when we cry over a lost loved one, and the ones grieving feel the need to apologize for crying.  What a crazy world we live in.  We are not given the time to grieve, mourn, cry with gutteral moaning the pain our souls are feeling.

Not so in the Victorian Era.  When a loved one was lost, the whole of society knew about it by the clothing that was worn by the ones left behind.  They were given the chance to mourn the death of their loved ones.  When a widow went out into public in her Widows Weeds, people knew she was in mourning and didn't notice anything untoward if she was weeping...they didn't expect her to "get over it" or didn't feel uncomfortable with her tears.  The clothing and duration of the mourning period in a sense gave permission for the mourners to do what came very naturally to them.  Grieve.  I think that is what I find so beautiful about the customs and clothing.  Death was a HUGE part of the Victorian Era.  They were so much more close to it than we are today, and I believe this helped them to handle it in a more dignified and honorable way.

My very first mourning dress was a bustle dress from 1886.  I used patterns from Truly Victorian...1884 French Vest Bodice1885 Four Gore Underskirt, and 1885 Pannier Pannel Add On.  The fabrics were faux dupioni silk and poly taffeta.  I ruched strips of faux dupioni for the bodice and sleeves along with prairie points just to give it added interest.  American Duchess pinned this tutorial for making the Prairie Points on her Pinterest board.  This is not how I made mine, but this looks like it would be a very good way to make them...





Fan:  Purchased from Blue Moon Antiques Store in Hyde Park, Boise.  When folded up, it folds in half lengthwise and the tassel loop hooks over the fan top keeping it from opening.


Boots:  Side buttoning with Military heel.  Purchased from now out of business antique store.  They actually fit!!!

Photo shoot at the Idaho City Pioneer Cemetery.  It is absolutely beautiful there and is still being used.


Parasol:  I covered the parasol with black with white stripe cotton fabric.  I didn't have a pure black parasol, so this one fit the bill for the time being.




This family plot had daffodils blooming around the graves.  Family members still go and tend the graves of their ancestors.


Reticule:  Leather with silvertone hardware found at local antique store.


I love this picture because you can see my Daddy in the back ground.



Brooch:  ordered off of eBay.  I have since sold it.  Yes, I am upset that I did.
Bonnet:  found at an antique lighting fixture store in Spokane, WA.  It is made of wire and silk.  There is white pleated netting on the inside.  Ostrich plumes and a fabulous almost matte brooch adorn the outside.  Ties are silk ribbon.
Buttons on bodice are antique glass buttons found on Etsy.

Thus concludes my first installment of TBT on Beauty from Ashes.
See you next Thursday!

Be blessed my friends.

g

Sunday, November 23, 2014

Sometimes Good Things Fall Apart...

Last weekend, my beloved friend Josie Smith flew me to Texas to spend the weekend with her.  Huuuuuuzaaaah!!!!  I was thrilled!!  There were plans galore to dress up, have pictures taken, attend the Dallas Fort Worth Costumers Guild's annual Georgian Picnic, partake of fabulous Georgian picnic-y foods, meet new people, visit with those newly met and generally immerse ourselves in costume glory for the afternoon.  I planned on wearing the Autumn in Cranford ensemble as I had just made it, it was still supposedly fall, and it still fell under the category of Georgian...barely.  But as Josie would say and did, the universe plotted against us.  The forecast called for cold, not chilly...cold temps and rain.  That and there was the 8 hour round trip drive.  The decision was made to not attend the Picnic.

While I did miss out on meeting new costuming friends and seeing those I had just recently met, (I am pretty confident that I will meet them at some time in the future!) my weekend was one of the best and most fun one I have had with a friend in a very long time.  Josie found the following sign that ended up being the anthem for the weekend.  

Marilyn Monroe

The weekend was so wonderful and laid back.  I got to "be" where Josie and her family live.  Their place is fabulous and now when she talks about it, I can see it, which is what I was very excited about!  This makes me so happy!  I got to see the chickens (and "pick" their eggs), goats, bees, pond, ducks, goose, dogs, sewing studio.  I got to paw through her fabric and lace stash, stitch a bit of the hem of a skirt, look through costuming books, see a demonstration on how a Victorian pleater works and peruse the "Closet of Complete Costumes".  We spent hours on Pinterest looking at color ideas for her kitchen cabinets, future dress ideas, decorating inspiration, and Christmas cookie recipes.  We went antiques shopping, fabric shopping (laaaaaaaaaaaa), and ate at a quaint little cafe where she was introduced to cheeseburger soup...one of my favorite fall go-tos...and raised our eyebrows at the snitty waitress.  I got to just hang and relax with her wonderful family and had dinner with other lovely friends that I haven't seen in over 5 years, Scott and Cindy Love.  It was glorious and fun, silly and wonderful, calm and crazy.  We had lazy mornings chatting over tea and on Sunday we made the fabulous cheeseburger soup for her family.  I was made most welcome and a part of the family for the weekend.  

Some photos of the weekend.


I sent this picture to my husband after he sent me a picture of our place with 6" of snow that had fallen over night.  We were in a very mocking state at the time....bwahahahahahaha!


I was introduced to the Texas Mum.  I had never seen anything like this before in my life.  I thought they were some odd things that were given to sweet little old ladies in Care Centers for Mother's Day...but noooooooo.  These are worn by high school girls during Home Coming.  I am still in shock and awe at the whole thing.  The look on Josie's face tells exactly how I felt.



Inside of a super fabulous store we went to.  Of course I cannot remember the name.  It was HUGE and the decor was so fun!!  A cross between shabby chic, antique and Texas Western.


This crown was epic!!  I have a funny look on my face cause I didn't want it to fall off my head.  It wasn't cheap and I didn't want to pay for it!


This was a GIGANTIC antiques store!  It was so fabulous.  It's a good thing I was flying and that I didn't have pockets full of money, because there were way too many things I lusted after.


The only time my new bonnet was worn was when Josie tried it on. This was so hilarious!!  Her head fit totally inside the bonnet.  Her nose was the only thing keeping it from engulfing her whole head!!  Yes....my head in enormous!!!



We played with Victorian dresses!!  One Josie is working on and one that is an extant example that I totally drooled over.  Sorry for the drool marks Josie!!  I can't wait to see the one she is working on completed!  It is going to be fabulous!!!


Two besties taking a selfie!!!  Aren't we cute?


Shockingly, I came away from Texas with only three things.  Steel for a new 1840s corset that I purchased from Josie's steel stash, an ivory tassle for my 1830s Archery dress if the blue one above doesn't work out.  I need to dye it to better match the silk I got for the bodice.  I am thinking of using a pink dye...we'll see if that works.


See the tassle?  I am hoping it works!

Like Marilyn said, "Sometimes good things fall apart so better things can fall together."  This weekend proved that.  Our friendship isn't just about costuming.  It is about kids and husbands and homeschooling and cooking and Jesus and life.  Thank you my friend for a fabulous weekend!  I love you!!

g

Thursday, November 13, 2014

Autumn in Cranford: The Accessories

Accessories

"Friends don't leave friends leave the house without accessories"

"I've always thought of accessories as the exclamation point of a woman's outfit"  Michael Kors

I love the accessories that go along with costuming.  It is my firm belief that when you decorate your outfits with accessores that fit the era of the outfit, it goes that much further to help your outfit look authentic and like you just stepped out of a fashion plate.  It also helps feed my OCD and "Shiny" Magpie issues...this could be a good thing or a bad thing.  

Anyhoo, I thought I'd share the accessories that I have chosen to decorate my Autumn in Cranford Dress with!

Pelerine

 Pelerines of lace and fine linen or cotton were worn over the day dresses in the Romantic era...a few examples can be found herehere, and here.

I am still debating on what I should wear at the top of my dress.  The fabulous lace pelerine that I found on eBay or the one that I made...the jury is still out...


I just love the way this lace one covers the wide shoulders!


Pretty, pretty lace!


Shawl

There are several instances I have found where a beautiful shawl, more than likely a carry over from Regency days, was worn on a cool day.  I found three lovely examples... one in a painting, one in a fashion plate, (top image of lady in black dress) and an extant example!! 

I followed the directions on to make a long shawl out of two smaller ones from Jen of Festive Attyre.  Her Regency Shawl Hack tutorial came in quite handy!  I found my shawls on eBay from this store.  They were thinner than I had assumed, but that's ok.  The two shawls went together quite nicely, but if you intend to do this, just be warned that my shawls were very slippery and took a lot of pins to keep them together while sewing.


Lovely jewel tone colors!


Works perfectly with the dress!!

Mitts

Another thing I noticed while researching the 1830s was that mitts were worn as well as gloves.  Some lovely examples can be found here, here, and here.

Kaila from Tea Cups and Frocks wore a pair of the most dainty mitts at Costume College and I about drooled all over them when I saw them!  She was kind enough to direct me to where she purchased them... Laci's.  They are made of silk and are hand knotted and are so fabulous!!!



Sadly when I wear them with my dress, you don't see very much of them!!


Reticule

For the requisite reticule, I will be resurrecting the one I made for my Elizabeth Bennet outfit I wore to Coco...Yay for things already on hand!!!


Boots!!

Ok, so I have been biding my time, waiting and waiting.  Finally the day came!  My birthday.  I told all who asked "What do you want for your birthday" that I would like funds to be pooled so I could purchase boots from American Duchess.  I was seriously ecstatic when I was able to order the Gettysburg Side Lace Boots!!!!  Then I was even more ecstatic when they finally arrived on my doorstep!  I think my mailman feared for his hand as I almost literally ripped the box from his grasp!  Ok, nooooooo, I didn't really rip them from his grasp... but I know that he knew I was serious about getting them inside!  THEN!!!  My son had the gaul to ask me if he could open the box!  Is he insane!!??????  Pft!!  No way son!   This is MY box that holds MY boots!  Get back!!  I rushed upstairs and calmly and gently opened the box that held the most fabulous pair of boots I have ever owned!!!!

And yes, I took pictures at each step!!  I am that geek.


Pretty powder blue box!!  Sigh!


The box is even beautiful and so very sturdy!


LOOK!!  Look!! Aren't they beautiful!!  They even smell good!!  


There was a fun gift inside.  A nummy sour apple sucker and a fun pin with a lovely Edwardian lady on it!  Again, the nerve of my son was astounding!  He asked if he could have my sucker!!  Has he taken leave of his senses?  Good heavens!!!  Hahahahaha!!!


Holy Monkey are these babies comfy!!  I ADORE them!  They fit wonderfully (because there is no toe box...didn't have a clue what that was but Lauren educated me....) so I ordered a size larger than what I usually wear to accomodate stockings and perhaps a insert.


Tra-la-la-la-laaaaaaaaa!!!  They work perfectly with the outfit!!  I am so very pleased!!!  I have plans to make many dresses from the 1830s to the 1860s so these sweet boots will get lots of use!!

Well, that is it for accessories for Autumn in Cranford!  Can't wait to put them all together!!

Be Blessed My Friends!!

g


Monday, November 10, 2014

Autumn in Cranford: Dress Done!!!

Whoo hoo!!!  The dress is done!  And shockingly without any horrific mishaps that usually hover like a spector of doom and despair around my projects.  I'm kind of scared.  I didn't have to adjust or alter the pattern one bit and that is seriously unusual for me.  BUT, this is a happy event, because this means I can make more of this dress without any of the usual hair pulling that often times accompanies my projects!

On to the dress-rehearsal pictures!!  (The pics of me wearing the dress were taken before I made the sleeve supports, so the sleeves look like sad, deflating balloons...)


Note to self:  Get a new camera that doesn't make fabric look washed out....


I cannot believe the enormity of the sleeves and bonnet!!!  I acutally look like I have a small head!  Which I DON'T!!!!


My Mrs. Universe pose!!  Look at those "muscles"!!  hahahahahaha!!!!


Miss Rosie had to get in the picture.  She does after all match the outfit!!  Isn't she so sweet?


Ok!  So, I found on eBay from England this fabulous lace pelerine and my Mama bought it for me for a birthday gift!!  It is gorgeous and I may be wearing it instead of the chemisette I originally planned on wearing with the dress....hhhmmm.....Oh yes!  Sleeve supports have been added so the sleeves puff out correctly!



Love how the pelerine looks with this dress...


Dress with the chemisette...love this look as well...




Close up of bodice with chemisette...now the decision of what collar to wear!!!

Next post will be about the accessories I have for this outfit!!  I am so excited to wear it!!

Be blessed my friends!

g