To all who mourn in Israel, He will give a crown of beauty for ashes, a joyous blessing instead of mourning, festive praise instead of despair. In their righteousness, they will be like great oaks that the LORD has planted for his own glory. Isaiah 61:3

Monday, April 13, 2015

1895 Sailor Dress

About 5 or so years ago....around the time I was getting ready to make my 1885 Bustle Sailor Dress, I stumbled across a most fabulous 1895 Sailor Dress and once again, I sucked in so much air, I swallowed my tongue.  I knew that one day I would make this dress and quickly turned to Facebook, asking any of my sewing friends if they had the pattern that was inspired by this dress, Simplicity 8375.  A wonderful friend from Australia, Cathy "Clancy" Arley (A most talented costumer I met through SASS) came through for me and sent me the pattern!!!  

Sadly the pattern has moldered away in my pattern file cabinet all that long time, in the dark, crying and crying to be made into its inspiration!  Well, I decided earlier this month that the rest of this year will be the year of the 1890s and Early 1900s.  Since I have a, some would say, fanatical obsession with all dresses Sailor, I decided my first outfit would be one that my heart has been longing to make.  It didn't hurt that I found two large dupioni silk curtain panels at a local thrift store either!!  Huzzah!!!!!  The original is made of cotton, but I love the way the ivory silk shines, so that's what mine will be made of!!!


Most fabulous, delicious, heart palpitatingly glorious original from The Museum at FIT.  This dress makes my heart so happy!!!


Now here is where we pause.  My lower back is starting to act up again...if you have been following me for long, you will know of which I speak.  If not, allow me to explain.  Every once in a while, like once a year, my lower back goes out so badly that I can't stand, sit, crawl, sneeze with out the most intense, excruciatingly horrid pain I have ever experienced.  Now I can handle pain folks...I'm a pretty tough cookie.  But this pain is so intense that I cry sob like a wee baby from the intensity of it.

This time around however, I recognized the pre go out pain and have decided to take it easy and quit sewing, cleaning, basically living my active life until it heals.  I have also discovered that it is during times of stress that this happens.  Weird.  That's me!!!  So, I have halted for a bit, until the back feels better.


I decided to try and see if my back was serious and sew on the soutache that my fabulous friend Tracy Gomez gave me last summer!  (that was a mistake by the way....a very big mistake...My back said, "I'm serious stupid!!!  Go lay down!!!)  I have about a million yards of this stuff!  I think Tracy got tired of going to LA and trying to find certain colors for me....Just kidding Tracy!  This stuff is dye able!!!

The stitching lines on the bottom are my guide lines for the soutache.  I sooooo did NOT want to pin all that soutache down, so thought this plan was pretty ingenious!!


After studying the Simplicity pattern, I decided to use the Truly Victorian TV494 Shirtwaists pattern.  I like how the center front of the peplum looks very similar to the original.  Don't worry, I won't be using those sleeves for this particular dress....


The Simplicity pattern that I am pretty sure was inspired by the original.  I will be using the sleeve pattern from this for mine!


Since I adore this skirt pattern, have made it about 20 times and can make it in about 2 hours, I decided to go ahead and use this for the skirt!

I will be drafting my own collar pattern as I LOVE how the original one is squared off.....

Ok, well, there you have it!  Can't wait to get back in the sewing chair again and finish this gown!  

Be blessed my friends!!

g

8 comments:

  1. Your lower back and mine could be twins :( I haven't had a serious problem with it in a year and a half (knock wood!!) but every time I do, it's a small fortune at the chiropractor's to put it back to rights again. I hope you feel better soon!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I am so sad that you have lower back issues! They are totally unnecessary in my opinion and take way too much time away from important things like sewing!! I go weekly to a chiropractor and I believe that is the reason for my back not going def con 5 this time around!!! I'll keep you in my prayers!!
      Blessings!
      g

      Delete
  2. I love the 1890's! I'm sure your dress will turn out excellent! Can't wait to see it :)
    ~Theresa

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thank you so much Theresa! The 90s were my first love when I started costuming 12 years ago, so this will be a fun year for me!!!
      Blessings!
      g

      Delete
  3. Ooo! One of my favorite gowns, like, ever. I can't wait to see how you do this one up. You always do such fantastic work!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Oh what fun!! I hope I don't disappoint!!! I have been wanting to make this one for such a long time and that time is finally here!!!
      Blessings!
      g

      Delete
  4. Oh no, I hope you'll get better soon (my neck is recently causing troubles, so I kind of (unfortunately for both of us) feel your pain). But the dress! I love the dress. Colours are amazing and that collar is to die for:)

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I hope your neck is doing better Maqda!! It is such a wretched thing when our bodies don't operate as they should!! I can't wait to get this dress completed!!!
      Blessings!
      g

      Delete