To all who mourn in Israel, He will give a crown of beauty for ashes, a joyous blessing instead of mourning, festive praise instead of despair. In their righteousness, they will be like great oaks that the LORD has planted for his own glory. Isaiah 61:3

Tuesday, October 10, 2017

1920s Robe de Style Wedding Dress



Hello everyone!  I hope that the start of your week has been splendid!  Mine has been ok!  This week's post concerns the 1920s Robe de Style wedding I dress I made for the "Dressing the Historical Bride" program.  I think it is one of my favorite dresses.  It is so ridiculous, with the panniered hips, but so elegant and lovely at the same time.


The Dress




I used a hem stitch to hem the satin edges.  That was so not fun.  But in the end it was worth it!













My court pearls worked perfectly with the dress!




Inspiraton for the Dress





Photo of a Robe de Style wedding dress I found on Pinterest with no source stated.  I LOVED the lace flounces on her skirt!  It is so sweet and very feminine.  I didn't much like the idea of making a collar like is on her dress, so left it off.




The bodice part of this dress, that was once on eBay, really made me happy.  I liked how plain it was leaving the skirt to do the showing off.  This dress has sheer sleeves, but I didn't like those either.  The flounces were gathered on a cord and that is what I did for my lace and satin flounces.  I also really liked the piping around the neckline, armscye and where the bodice meets the skirt. 




There was also on this dress a decoration at the left hip.  This is a popular place for decoration on a lot of the dresses I saw while doing research.






Skirt Decoration





I discovered two dresses online that had floral decorations that I fell in absolute love with and determined that my dress should have the same decoration.




For mine, I made small tubes of satin that were knotted at the end, wire and very thin crochet thread and antique lily of the valley sprigs.




This decoration turned out so lovely and I was happy that I took the time to complete it.





Inspiration for Decoration

This first inspiration dress is from antiquedress.com (the next 4 photographs).  Deborah graciously gave me permission to use several photographs here on the blog.  Thank you Deborah!




The first decoration I discovered was on this dress from Antique Dress.  I instantly fell in love with how the leaves were placed on wire then covered with thread and the addition of  the lily of the valley.




 Everything about this dress makes me happy.  The color, the satin, the lace and the floral decoration!!




Look at all those lovely lily of the valley!  I think there were also waxed orange blossoms used!




Full dress photograph. What's not to love!!!???



The second inspiration for the floral decoration comes from Wild Rose Vintage (next 3 photographs). Thank you so much Faye for letting me share your dress here!!  I am so in love with it!




I really can't believe how similar the decoration on these two dresses are.  Like almost exactly the same!!  And look a that lovely piping between bodice and skirt!




The close up of this one really helped with placement of the leaves and the lily of the valley.




Full view of Faye's fabulous dress!!


I used a tutorial that I found through Pinterest to make the satin flower.  You can find that tutorial Here.  The leaves I made using instructions from a fabulous book..."The Art and Craft of Ribbon Work".  It is a reproduction of a 1920s flower and bow making book that is fabulous!





And speaking of piping....look at what I did while making piping for my dress!  I have NEVER sewn through my finger while using my sewing machine.  Well, my fingers got a little too close to the needle this time.  The dangers of using a zipper foot I guess! Thankfully, it wasn't that bad of an accident!



The Pattern



For the pattern I used for the dress was the Laughing Moon pattern 128 Robe de Style, View C and it went together like a dream!!


Right then!  I hope you all have a most excellent rest of your weeek!  I'm trying to work up the desire to start on my 1860s elliptical skirt half mourning dress.  We shall see how tomorrow goes!

Blessings!

g

Sunday, October 1, 2017

1830s Wedding Bonnet and Accessories



Good Sunday to you all!  I hope that your past week was a fabulous one!  Mine was good.  Mom has been improving with her shattered leg and working on her therapy and should be going home tomorrow!!  Huzzah!  

Today, I'm sharing the bonnet I made to go with the 1830s Wedding Dress.  There wasn't a bonnet that I copied "exactly", but I took some ideas from extant bonnets and fashion plates from the 1830s.  I noticed that a lot of the bonnets from then had a texture or pattern other than plain satin and that made me happy.  I also noticed that quite a few had narrow stripes.  LOVE!  I spent quite a long time trying to locate some fabric that would suit my idea of the bonnet I wanted and it wasn't until my Big Sis, Marilyn Holly gave me a bag of fabric.  In this bag was the perfect fabric!!! Huzzah!  I raced home with my bag of fabric and held it up to my dress, and low and behold they were in the same color family!!!  I was thrilled!  I also wanted it to be over the top to go along with the fabric and design of the dress.  I added three antique, off white ostrich feathers, a huge flower sprig that I took off an antique hat that was falling apart, wide antique ivory ribbon for the decorative bows and some incredible antique lace that was in my stash!!  

The pattern I used was Lynn McMaster's 1830s Romantic Era Bonnet


The Bonnet


































Images that inspired me while making the bonnet for the dress:







Necklace and Earrings




My sister, Kelly, made the necklace for me while we were in the waiting room at the hospital waiting for Mom's surgery to be over. Thanks sis!!! Little did we know what a 2 hour knee replacement would turn into an 8 hour surgery to repair the bone that was shattered into over 20 pieces attempting to remove the rod that had been placed in the fibula over 31 years ago.  On a happy note, Mom is improving nicely and will be going home from the care center where she has been rehabilitating for 2.5 weeks tomorrow!!!

The inspiration for the necklace came from Dames a la Mode tumblr.



What She Carried Down the Aisle




I had a hard time finding a fashion plate, portrait or any suggestion that a bride carried flowers on her wedding day in the 1830s.  I'm sure she did, but...  I will do more research into that, but for the fashion show, I liked the idea of a bride walking down the aisle with a prayer book.  All of the fashion plates that I saw from the 1830s of brides showed her holding a prayer book or Bible and many times a handkerchief.  I had a dickens of a time trying to find an era or at least antique prayer book on line or even in town, but I came across this one from the 1960s at a local antique store that was holding an Estate sale.  Huzzah!  I'll continue to look for a true, era appropriate prayer book, but until then, this will do!  I also had my 1830s bride wear my silk, fingerless mitts.

Inspiration below for prayer book or Bible carrying.




Source:  LAPL




Source:  LAPL




Source:  LAPL




Source:  LAPL



Sleeve Supports




To keep the enormous sleeves up and in place, I made these sleeve supports using a pattern that Annielese of The Young Sewphisticate sent me! Thank you my dear!  These are fabulous and totally aided in keeping the correct shape!!  Here is a pair of extant sleeves supports that are in FIDM Museum.



And to finish the blog, one more look at the lovely Miss Molly modeling the dress!  She was so adorable and such a good sport!! Thank you again Molly for joining us!!











Well, I believe that's all for the 1830s Wedding Dress....until I wear it!!  I can't wait!!

I hope you all have a wonderful first week of October!  See you next Sunday!

Blessings!

g

Sunday, September 24, 2017

1830s Wedding Dress



Good Sunday to you all!  I hope that your week is going wonderfully!  Mine has been great so far!

The last post I wrote was about the "Dressing The Historical Bride" fashion show and tea, highlighting 5 unique silhouettes from 5 different clothing eras.  Today I want to share with you the 1836 wedding dress that I made and the Augusta Auctions Dress that I used as inspiration!  I emailed Augusta Auctions and Karen Augusta gave me permission to use the photos of the phenomenal, incredible, over-the-top dress found on her website:  Augusta Auctions.  Thank you so much for allowing me to use this fantastic dress and the images in the making of my own 1830s dress!!

I have for quite some time wanted to make a crazy, ridiculous, huge sleeved 1830s dress.  I also knew that I wanted a fabric with a texture on it and not just a plain satin fabric.  While mom and I were visiting my brother and his family in Spokane Valley, I stopped by a JoAnn's and low and behold this incredibly beautiful brocade jumped off the shelves and wrestled me to the ground screaming for me to buy the bolt and take it home.  I agreed with the crazy, customer attacking fabric and purchased it...oh, and I could use my 60% off coupon!  Huzzaaaaaah!!!  It made my magpie heart happy.  Now all I needed was the perfect dress to copy!  After hours and hours of searching Pinterest, my eyes beheld the most gorgeous 1830s wedding dress I had ever seen!  First of all.....PLEATS!!!  Secondly, although I had never given oak tree leaves any thought other than thinking they were super cool, this dress had two huge oak leaves framing the pleating on the bodice.  The more I looked at the dress, the more my eyes dilated, the more I salivated, the more I got excited, the more I HAD to make it!!!  The fussiness of the whole thing just really captured my crazy fashion loving heart!

Here she is in all her 1830s glory!!!  Don't know when I'll get the chance to wear it myself, but I hope that day is soon!!!



















































Some construction images...

I foolishly thought that this dress would be a super quick make.  Aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaahahahahahahahahahahahahahaha!!!
That was the most hilarious thing I had talked myself into believing for a very, very long time.  I don't know how long it took, but I can say that during the making of the three dresses that I needed to round out the program (1836, 1856, 1920's), I finished all 10 seasons of "CSI: Miami".  That would be 232 episodes that averaged 43 minutes a piece for a total 9,976 minutes or 166 hours.  Throw in the random "Cranford", some "Call the Midwife", "Manoa", and I started "CSI:Crime Scene Investigation".  All I know is that making the whole dress was a colossal consumer of time.




The pleating was particularly a pain in the rear.  The panel was too wide to use my perfect pleater, so I had so measure, mark and pleat each individual pleat, one at a time.  




I did have to cheat a little and serge the edges of the oak leaves because the fabric was wretchedly ravvely.  Ravelly....It unraveled a whole lot!!! 




This is why I haven't ever made a set of 1770s stays.  Hand sewing the binding around the edges and the inside curves was a pain!!!  Each long oak leaf and the bow took a day each to sew!  ACK!!!!!




Soooooooo many pins!!!!




I ended up cutting a whole bunch of the painstakingly pleated panel off on the sides....grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr.........




 


I then had to hand sew along both sided of the piping that was down the center of the oak leaves to make sure they didn't shift.  That was fun....

 


Ready to sew onto the dress!!!


Well, I can now say that I have an 1830s wedding dress in my costuming collection and for some reason that makes me giddy with delight!

I hope you all have a wonderful last week of September!  I can't believe how fast time is flying by!

Blessings!

g